already are 7 competitions held in Pola de Siero in honor of this climber Spaniard, and as usual, the result was excellent: many people watching the competition, many participants, lots of atmosphere (huge the speaker) and very good blocks (Congratulations Alejo, Nano, Brian, Rafa and co .)
This year it premiered new competition system with three disciplines in category Actor: bouldering, no foot and sets. The truth is that seeing the changes do not deny that I had reservations and indeed there is something that still does not convince me much, as a person to rank 1, after climbing all morning you can see out in one hit, but Well, apart from that, I will say that it is much more dynamic, more spectacular for the public and less tiring for the participants, at least I do not end with the forearms of Popeye for once ... and I dispute the finals of the 3 disciplines . Moreover, all that is to bring new things to normal competition system gotta try it!
Well, in parts. Morning we had 4 blocks of qualifying for discipline. There being no where I decided to start heating some of the blocks "without feet" which were painted to be simple (despite being an uncoordinated way with his feet in the air ...). They went to the first and encouraged me to try another "without feet." It turned out to be harder, because it was small prey, but I got him to the 3rd hit. And the muscle to tone happened to "with feet." Highly technical blocks proposed by the team, something unusual. To begin with a mantle in which the only barrier we had was for the foot ... I think I hit that 8, but I got it. Time for the super slab of 45 º. 3 hit and not decipher how to solve the above, which I quit. Step to the dihedral. Start by mantle in great shape temita blue and then to reach the top. Again it took a few hit but I can solve it. The last block was a blunt edge dams. For once I read it over and did it first. I have 3 and 4, by which I take a breath.
I see that nobody makes the super slab, so I decide not to give more hit and prove to the other two disciplines. The "no foot" that I have not come out (requires coordination that my brain is incapable of processing ...), so for the sets, do I launch? Well, what remedy was still some time before lunchtime! I get to it and to my surprise come out, come out, and although the ceiling set in a little choked me, I managed to finish making them all pretty well. For nothing! The "no feet" left! I look a little on what makes people and finally comes out. Bueeeeeeno, this really surprised me.
At the end of step 1 in boulder, 3 degrees in sets and 5 not to foot, with the evening will be entertaining ...
For the rest of people: the yogurt-team (Alex and Ramon) not had the best competition and are not things went very well (maybe now I do case with Sergio !!!); Trainings Sánchez (very hard the guy) was with a block plane so no feet, but the super slab bait (no chain could not), which gave about 15 hit, and just leaving a block of category without foot (final next year!) Pablin only going to do sets and no foot, but ultimately became one more boulder with relative ease and this earned her place in the final.
also around a lot of people more: Nacho and Blas de Leon, Pablo de Palencia, Marcos Burgos, Carlos Mier, whose prey (factory Ñascam) packed the super slab, Nacho Sanchez has rhythm as a sloth bear out the morning without being able to prove even a single set, so that eventually you would run out the prize in that category (then you will see), Pugs, who think he feels good not to sleep, then decided to all sets and all the foot not the first paste (inhuman gourd), Jairo and Tino, more boar boars of all, and a lot of people more.
In girls, but I can not give many details because I was not a parrot, Sonia became the final 1, 2 and María Alba 3 º. Toca
return to the van to eat a little and relax.
the finals begin. First the girls. In Sonia is outside your block to first paste it Aastrich Cristin and solve the first hit while it was her foot. In the other block Alba and Maria go to the superfinal. Already in the finals Cristin wins, followed by Aastrich and third Alba.
our turn! In the yellow block and Carlinos Nacho chained to the first hit. In the blue I get solved and, for qualifying, also passes Jairo. In the finals I go last. Nacho just before the block chains. My turn. I'm going pretty well, but the block is long, it reached the crux and resolve in extremis, but I forget a great green foot and fall ... Nacho champion, I second and third Carlinos (well, had only prize for the first two, but by custom say the first 3 of each category). No
foot. I choose a block of shorter strokes and small dam. The first hit came to the dam 11. Pugs like me. To book me and I can not play the second stick. In the end luck and spent. In the other block and Tino go Nacho tranqui chained. I start in the final block. I fall a prey to the top. Tino, Nacho and Pugs get one more. Second beat, beaten. Thereby qualifying strip: Pugs 1, Tino Nacho 2 and 3 º.
Hauls. Here there were more participants, they spent 3 of the finals each block. Each block had 3 sets in a row. In my block we have to give extra hit because none solved the 2 nd. Tino just solving the 2 nd and passed. I play the dam but I do not stay, bone by qualifying to the final step, just as Pablo Alonso. On the other Pugs, Pablin and *** (I need somebody and I do not remember!) Also passed. The finals two blocks joined by 5 shots. Pure entertainment! Solve all 3 of the sets but chokes the 4 th. Dan Nacho entry (out of competition) to see if it resolves, but nothing. We opted to change the barrier of receipt. With this change Nacho resolved, but the rest odd. Thereby qualifying strip: Pugs 1, Tino 2 and I?, Sisisisisi I 3 º in sets, hahahaha.
Almost nothing. Tute go we've hit ... well, there's still Sunday to try to climb, so we go with Gelu prontito, Luci, Iris Vera and small home in La Felguera.
Gelu Sunday and I are going to Anzo. We stopped to see Sergio at the restaurant and get Pablin. The boulder is quite wet, but the draft Gelu resists. More pain than if I had spent an attempt to steamroller over heating ... will be hard! Little by little is going on and we get to the project. A block starts singing roof over well, passes and kill small prey a very bloody finishing move that can weigh itself 7c +. Overall, perhaps 8a +. Gelu stayed very very close and I the truth is not so bad. There will come back.
go back soon for lunch with the girls, and yes we did go ... I had not eaten much in my life ... like gelu said: "We catch a good fartura" ... and so much! A Almax and return home.
Today I woke up that I can not move ... I have a bruised heel and one in the ass. I have biceps and forearms agarrotadísimos, hands are still swollen and, worst of all, what hurts my abs! Every time I sneeze I see the stars! But hey, if the weekend was another competition next Saturday as I think I would repeat!